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Anne Marie Panoringan
Voice of OC’s food columnist — reporting on industry news, current events and trends. Panoringan’s prior work includes writing about food for 8 years at the OC Weekly in which she interviewed more than 330 chefs, restauranteurs and industry professionals for her weekly On the Line column. She has been recognized by the Orange County Press Club and she also is a recurring guest on AM 830’s SoCal Restaurant Show.
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After remaining hopeful and upbeat for nine months, December has become a tipping point for restaurants. There is only so much takeout and support anyone can give. Saddened at the state of the restaurant industry, I spoke with chefs and owners about how they are coping with a second lockdown. Their responses ranged from addressing mental health to offering solutions to the current situation.

Coming Up with Ways Out
Andrew Gruel has made news recently over comments made regarding politicians not following their own orders, plus deciding to continue outdoor dining at his flagship Slapfish seafood restaurant in Huntington Beach. Gruel wants to focus on what needs to get done in order for dining establishments to survive.
Not Just Physical Health
As someone who has been on both the kitchen and dining room sides of a restaurant, Mina Sacramento discusses an intangible variable affecting restaurants. She is a partner and consultant at Shuck Oyster Bar in Costa Mesa. “The mental health of a lot of people in our industry is worrying,” Sacramento said. “A lot of restaurant owners are trying too hard to make it [work] and trying to adapt to daily changes. We’re pretty resilient, but also facing so much push back and difficulty not just from the government but also our guests. And [we] do this while having to isolate from our loved ones; I see more strangers than I do family.”
In an industry that keeps staff on their feet and pays wages that are lower than most industries, to experience emotional stress in addition to the rest is draining.“I want our employees and our guests to be healthy. I want to stop the spread, but I also think we need to be more aware and more educated [on] how to reopen safely. We need to do something to help sustain our financial, physical and mental health.”
-Mina Sacramento, a partner and consultant at Shuck Oyster Bar in Costa Mesa
From Michelin Star Chef to Stay-At-Home Dad
Earning his first Michelin star in 2019 for Le Comptoir, chef Gary Menes was forced to close reservations at his 10-seat Los Angeles dining space. Temporarily shuttered since March, his new routine is family-centric. “I’ve been staying at home with the kids and helping them navigate with virtual schooling, breakfast-lunch-dinner, and their athletic endeavors. Nothing glamorous, but necessary under these unprecedented circumstances.” Menes’ wife Rosa, a pediatric registered nurse at Miller Children’s & Women’s Hospital, works on the front lines. Since being forced back into lockdown under the recent mandate, his pandemic pivot involves elevated comfort fare offered through his Instagram account: “I will offer sourdough bread and pizza, all made with my 26-year old sourdough starter, along with my kids’ favorite chocolate chip cookies. I also offer barbecue we cheekily call ‘Q Session.’ A session usually has at least three proteins slow smoked in our custom-made offset smoker by Drew Brahs of Harper Barbecue in Huntington Beach. Our seasonal sides are ones that I love to have with barbecue; the last one was charred Chino Farms purple broccoli, with shallots, lemon, chili and pistachio sourdough bread crumbs.” Menes typically offers preorders on Mondays, and his bakes/Q Sessions are executed over the weekend. He schedules each guest with a designated pick-up time so exposure to other guests is limited. Menes’ optimistic outlook offers hope: “Good cooks by nature are great problem-solvers and are extremely resilient. The kitchen and high expectations from customers brings out those qualities. We will survive, and when this is over we will thrive once more. I’m waiting nervously, but patiently.”Common Sense and Decision-making
One more voice that put himself out there was Jeff Chon, founder of Oak & Coal, The Alley, The Wayfarer and Tabu Shabu restaurants. He posted a powerful message last week, standing up for what he believed in. After expressing his initial concerns, Chon also echoed the thoughts of many restaurateurs: “Anything that could reasonably slow the spread of this virus was a good thing. However, what once made sense has now become unreasonable and without merit.” During the two minute, forty-three second video, Chon shows respect to those on both sides of the dining issue. But he also makes his opinion clear, “The rules and regulations have become backwards as they continue to support big box retailers and large companies deemed essential, while offering no support to small businesses that make up a large portion of California people and its economy. If science supports such vast and encompassing regulations, then these regulations should apply to all industries equally without bias. But non-partisan science does not support this.” Ultimately, Chon believes the onus is left to the customer to decide what happens next. “This is why I ask our guests to make their own risk-evaluated decisions to continue to support the local businesses that are in defiance of this new state order.” Above all, he stresses vigilance. “We all have to remain conscious and vigilant, but this vigilance should also be applied to using common sense, supporting our local businesses and not letting a virus decimate our mental and physical well-being,” Chon said. “Now is the time to fight for what is most important in your lives.”On a Lighter Note: Where to Go During a Pandemic (Corona del Mar Edition)
When the weather was too warm inland but I was hesitant to visit the beach, I would spend a couple of hours at Sherman Library & Gardens off Pacific Coast Highway. For a $5 entry, it was a relaxing respite of curated landscapes, expansive gift shop, and koi pond within a greenhouse. Last week, the gardens began its “Nights of 1,000 Lights,” a holiday spectacle held after-hours. Social distance protocols, timed entry and mandatory masks are being enforced for this rain or shine, ticketed event. Bundle up for the technicolor light tunnel and other garden surprises.